Cooking with Kristy Kelly: A Little North of Southern

I love Tammy Kelly. Let’s get that out of the way before I start showing up with recipes and another Kelly byline. Tammy has been feeding Neuse News readers for years, and I have absolutely no intention of challenging her position. I like her, and I would like her to continue liking me.

But I grew up in McKeesport, Pennsylvania, and there are a few things I need to bring to the table. Most of them involve cabbage, potatoes, butter, or some combination of the three.

Welcome to A Little North of Southern.

North Carolina is home, but some of my food preferences still have a Pennsylvania address. Give me a plate of halushki with egg noodles, cabbage and onions, and I am perfectly content. Put potato-and-cheese pierogi in front of me, preferably browned in butter with more onions, and we can discuss portion control at a later date.

Much later.

Then there’s stuffed cabbage. The filling is beef and pork mixed with rice, tucked into a cabbage leaf like a little uncooked meatball getting dressed for dinner. It all cooks in tomato sauce, and the result is considerably better than anything described as a meatball getting dressed has a right to be.

These are the foods I want to share here, along with city chicken, which requires an explanation, and walnut rolls, which require enough patience to let them cool before you cut into them.

That last part feels unnecessarily demanding.

I write about a lot of things, but food gives us a particularly easy way to talk about where we came from. Sometimes the details come back through a smell or a bite before we’ve even thought to go looking for them. Sometimes we just want dinner that tastes familiar after a day when absolutely nothing else made sense.

There will be room for both here.

Tammy has long made room at her table for all of us. I hope she won’t mind if I pull up another chair and pass the cabbage.

1. Halushki

Buttered cabbage, onions and egg noodles

Serves: 6
Time: About 40 minutes

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Cook the egg noodles in salted water according to the package directions. Drain.
  2. Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to turn golden.
  3. Add the cabbage, salt and pepper. Toss carefully; the cabbage will shrink as it cooks.
  4. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the pan becomes dry, add a little water.
  5. Uncover and cook another 10–15 minutes, until the cabbage reaches your preferred tenderness and some edges begin to brown.
  6. Add the drained noodles and remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Toss over low heat until everything is hot. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

2. Stuffed Cabbage Rolls

Beef, pork and rice in tomato sauce

Makes: About 12 rolls
Serves: 6
Time: About 3 hours, including preparation

Ingredients

For the cabbage and filling:

For the sauce:

Directions

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Remove the cabbage core with a small knife.
  2. Bring a large pot of water to a gentle boil. Carefully lower the cabbage into the water. As the outer leaves soften, loosen them with tongs and transfer them to a tray. Continue until you have about 12 large, pliable leaves. Let cool.
  3. Trim the thick raised rib on each leaf so it will fold easily, taking care not to cut through the leaf.
  4. Combine the raw beef and pork with the cooked rice, onion, egg, salt and pepper. Mix gently, just until combined.
  5. In a separate bowl, stir together all sauce ingredients.
  6. Spread a thin layer of sauce in a deep 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Use extra cabbage leaves to patch any torn rolling leaves.
  7. Divide the filling among the prepared leaves, placing it near the stem end. Fold the bottom over the filling, fold in the sides and roll up.
  8. Arrange the rolls seam-side down in the baking dish. Pour the remaining sauce over them.
  9. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 1½–2 hours, until the cabbage is tender and the center of the filling reaches 160°F. Begin checking at 90 minutes.
  10. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving with sauce spooned over the top.

3. Potato and Cheese Pierogi

Boiled, then browned with butter and onions

Makes: About 30 pierogi
Time: About 1 hour, 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the dough:

For the filling:

For finishing:

Directions

  1. Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, about 15–20 minutes. Drain thoroughly. Mash with the cheddar, butter, salt and pepper. Let cool completely.
  2. For the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the egg, sour cream, melted butter and ⅓ cup warm water. Stir into the flour. Add additional water a teaspoon at a time if needed to bring the dough together.
  3. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 3–5 minutes, until smooth. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes.
  4. Divide the dough in half, keeping one half covered. Roll the other half about ⅛ inch thick. Cut into 3½-inch circles.
  5. Place about 1 tablespoon filling in each circle. Keep the edges clean, fold into a half-moon and pinch firmly to seal. Moisten the edge lightly with water if needed. Repeat with the remaining dough, rerolling scraps after a short rest.
  6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil. Cook the pierogi in small batches, stirring gently to prevent sticking. Once they float, cook another 2–3 minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain.
  7. Meanwhile, melt the finishing butter in a large skillet. Cook the onion over medium-low heat until golden, about 15–20 minutes.
  8. Move the onions aside or remove them temporarily. Brown the boiled pierogi in batches, adding a little butter if needed. Serve with the onions and optional sour cream.

Make ahead: Freeze uncooked pierogi in a single layer, then transfer to freezer bags. Boil from frozen, allowing additional cooking time.

4. City Chicken

Breaded pork skewers

Serves: 6
Time: About 1 hour

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes.
  2. Thread the pork onto the skewers without packing the pieces tightly together. Season with salt and pepper.
  3. Place the flour in one shallow dish. Beat the eggs and water in a second. Combine the breadcrumbs, garlic powder and paprika in a third.
  4. Coat each skewer in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs, pressing gently so the coating adheres.
  5. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Brown the skewers in batches, turning carefully, about 5–7 minutes total per batch.
  6. Set the browned skewers on a rack in a roasting pan. Pour the broth beneath the rack so it does not soak the breading.
  7. Bake for approximately 20–30 minutes, until the pork reaches at least 145°F. Rest for at least 3 minutes before serving.

5. Walnut Nut Rolls

Soft yeast dough with a sweet walnut filling

Makes: 2 rolls, about 12 slices each
Time: About 3½ hours, including rising and cooling

Ingredients

For the dough:

For the filling:

For finishing:

Directions

  1. Combine the warm water, yeast and 1 teaspoon of the measured sugar. Let stand for 5–10 minutes, until foamy.
  2. Stir in the remaining sugar, sour cream, melted butter, eggs and salt.
  3. Add 3½ cups flour gradually, mixing until a soft dough forms. Knead for 5–7 minutes, adding only enough remaining flour to prevent excessive sticking.
  4. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place until nearly doubled, about 1–1½ hours.
  5. Meanwhile, make the filling. Heat the milk, sugar and butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and stir in the walnuts, vanilla and salt. Cool completely. The filling should be thick and spreadable.
  6. Divide the dough in half. Roll each half on a lightly floured surface into a rectangle approximately 10 by 14 inches.
  7. Spread half the filling over each rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border. Roll up from a long edge, tuck the ends under and pinch the seams closed.
  8. Place seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving space between the rolls. Cover loosely and let rise for 30–45 minutes, until puffy.
  9. Heat the oven to 350°F. Brush the rolls lightly with the egg wash.
  10. Bake for 30–40 minutes, until golden brown and the bread portion reaches approximately 190°F. Tent loosely with foil if browning too quickly.
  11. Cool completely before slicing so the filling has time to set.
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